goussard pipes

On the bench

2012-01-30T22:41:00.002+02:00

The beginning of the year so far has not been much fruitful regarding pipe making.
First off, my holiday went wrong. Ask me what my ultimate holiday would be, I would most definitely say that it would be undisturbed and unlimited time in the shop. The two weeks of holiday that I had since just before Christmas, was not really holiday at all. It was spend on doing those things that's been dragging on for way too long, but just had to be done. Yip, you guessed it: painting, varnishing, gardening, etc.
Then, as if that was not enough, we had visitors for 3 weeks.
So, after all that wasted time, I eventually came up with these 3 pipes on the bench.
The little saucer with bamboo insert started life off as a bulldog that surprised me with awful fissures and cracks on the rim. It's been lying on the bench for a couple of months, until I picked it up and decided to play around with it and a sanding disc. I'm not really sure which way I'm going with the stem yet, but I have a couple of ideas.
The rough shaped stummel on the right is destined to be my 2nd try at shape-first, then drilling. Hopefully you'll see a glorious post about this. If you do not, do not ask.
The pipe in the middle started off with a long shank and the idea to give it a short saddle bit, with maybe a bit of green acrylic thrown in, to keep with the flowery theme. But alas, briar is a fickle friend (or sometimes fiend) and the shank broke. I'm very happy with the result so far, though. Stamping, polish and wax still to come and this one will be ready.

Workshop

2011-11-18T18:09:00.003+02:00

My wife took some photos of me in the shop a while ago and I thought I'd share them with you.

Here's me in the workshop. Luckily the photo is quite small and in black and white, else you would have been able to see that the pairof jeans that I'm wearing is torn to pieces!

My trusty old lathe. All the additional tooling and modifications is worth much more than what I paid for it. It doesn't happen often that I get a real bargain. This was definitely it.

And last but not least: my workshop companions. Dory the garage cat, Tosca the border collie and Diesel the Husky.

Of files and rasps

2011-10-30T23:12:00.003+02:00

Tonight when finishing up in the shop, I suddenly realised that in front of me, half the table has been taken up with files. No wonder, as any pipemaker will be able to tell you!

I for one, can't walk past a file without thinking where it'll be very usable. All shapes and sizes, big to small, flat, round, half round, triangular. I need them all.

Well, sooner or later I will!

The first photo are the ones that I rarely use. Among them the rasps. For pipe making rasps are really too hardcore in my personal opinion. The triangular files I basically use for intricate stem work or on bents to get into tight corners.

The files on the 2nd photo, are my everyday workhorses.

Bottom one first. This file is called a "farmers friend". Might also be called Charl's friend. It gives a smooth cut, removes stock quickly and have safe edges on both sides. Wonderful for stem work.

Second from the bottom is the monster. This file is huge and actually way too long and unwieldy for pipe making. It belonged to my grandfather. But it is indispensable when making tapered stems. The taper from tenon to button will be straight as an arrow, that I can promise you.

The third one is called a chainsaw file. This round file I use on shank/bowl transitions and also on the more "fancy" stems. It also is good to have when sanding, I've found. With a piece of sandpaper turned around it, it'll get into weird and wonderful corners. Indispensable.

Next up is another big and cumbersome beast. Got this one for a bargain (just can't walk past a bargain, now, can I?) at a 2nd hand shop. The width allows for nice wide flat surfaces. Have to be careful when filing though, because of the sharp edges. I mainly use it for rough work.

Number four is a small square file, with very fine cut and safe edge on only one side. This file is used for finishing work around the button. Especially just in front of the button and then also the surface perpendicular to the bowl, the "vertical walls" on the stummel side.

Last but not least, is the file I probably use the most. It was bought as part of a set of cheapies. And what a good deal its been! This file removes stock quite quickly. Originally it didn't have any safe edges, but this was remedied on the bench grinder. It is used on the stummel, around the shank/bowl transition, and then also to get rid of those little bumps and ridges that always appear. For stem work it is amazing. It can be used on saddle stems, tapered stems, on the button, etc. The list goes on and on.

On the bench

2011-09-10T08:17:00.003+02:00

At the moment I am busy with these 3 pipes. A cutty, a straight rhodesian and acorn.
The shank of the cutty still have to be thinned down towards the stem and will be sandblasted and stained. I love the flowing lines of a cutty, as well as (of course) Zulu shapes. It is quite sad though that most pipesmokers ignore them. The forward canted bowl is off putting to many people and there seem to be the opinion that they would not smoke well. In my humble opinion the opposite is actually true. The forward canted bowl allows for the airhole to finish right in the bottom of the bowl, allowing for a great draw. And there should also be no worries about the tobacco and ash falling out! Do yourself a favour and have a look at them next time you have a bout of PAD.
I've always been fascinated by rhodesians, but for some reason never made any. I don't know if it is a South African thing, but almost all of the old pipesmokers that I grew up with, had either a bulldog or rhodesian in their collection. Most often, rhodesian. This one is a straight, stubby one with the bowl canted forward ever so slightly. The grain is looking good and it will probably end up as a smooth.
I have made a couple of acorn shaped pipes before. This is quite a challenging shape, but also allows for a lot of flexibility. The acorn can be fat and stubby, slim and sharp, or anything in between. The same with the shank. You can have it curved, with reverse taper etc. No wonder pipemakers love this type of pipe. This one is destined to become blasted.

Why I do not make a lot of full-bents

2011-07-31T21:30:00.014+02:00

A lot of pipesmoking friends have asked me why I do not make that many full bents. I have tried to explain this in words, but never had the time to try and put together some sketches. After all, a picture's worth a thousand words, or so they say.
Please excuse my feeble attempts at drawing!
First off, we'll look at a straight pipe. The above version of a billiard will do. Forgetting the practical side, in theory, it is quite easy. The airway finishes right in the bottom of the tobacco chamber, and the tenon is exactly the same length as the mortis. One continuous diameter airway from bowl towards the end of the mouthpiece, where it tapers and fans out to accommodate the bit. Keeping the flow even all the way through, without obstruction. The result a pipe that will smoke well and without gurgle. Day to day cleaning can be done without taking the stem out, just pushing a pipecleaner straight through the stem into the bowl.

Assuming that the airway finishes right in the bottom of the bowl, we have 2 possible problems. The first is if the tenon is longer than the mortis is deep. Easy to see, as there will be a gap between stem and shank.

The 2nd, is where the fun starts. This is when the tenon is shorter than the mortis. Smoke will move through the airway and suddenly get to this wider part, where it'll start swirling. Physics will tell us that the heavier particles (oil and moisture) will be deposited. Result: gurgle!

But there is also another important thing to consider. Tobacco smoke is basically CO, CO2, water and other bits and pieces. But the reason we smoke pipe, is because of the taste. And a lot of these flavours that we love are soluble! Thus, a wet smoker = loss of flavour.

Now on to 1/4 or 1/2 bents. If you have a look at the above sketch, in theory, you can still drill the airway, bowl and mortise with ease, resulting in perfect flow from bowl to bit. With the same problems that can arise as with the straight pipe. But nothing that practise and a little attention to detail can't overcome.

Now we get to the full bents. Because of the angle of drilling needed, things are not so easy. The above would be a "perfectly" drilled Oom Paul. Note how high the airhole ends in the wall of the bowl and the position towards the back. Ever wondered why a full bent tends to burn unevenly and more towards the stem side? Yip!

And then of course there also is the obvious: there will always be unsmoked tobacco left in the bottom of the bowl. The airflow through this will be minimal, condensation will take place, making this soggy and thus the chances that gurgle will occur, increase.

Lets go to the tenon and mortise. If you have a close look at the drilling lines of the above, you'll notice that by drilling the airhole, the mortise will be touched (nicked) by the drill bit. For me personally, not a problem, as this will be covered by the face of the stem. However, for some people, this is a definite no-no. Can it be solved? Sometimes. Making the diameter of the tenon and mortise bigger, might work. But then the walls of briar around the mortise also gets thinner, which increases the chance of breakage. Catch 22?!

One last note: observe the length (or shortness!) of the tenon. This is done in all perfectly drilled full bents, to be able to get the airway to finish centered and right in the bottom of the mortise, a prerequisite for even flow of air and a "dry smoker".

All of this ramble regarding full bents is the theory, in practise it is not that easy. Somebody one said: the difference between theory and practise; is that in theory practise is theoretical, but in practise, theory is not practical. Anybody ever drilling through wood at angles, will tell you that drill bits always want to follow the path of least resistance. Which is nowhere where you want it to go. Makes you think, doesn't it?

But how many of us have ever smoked or even just held an Oom Paul drilled like this one? Not many, I can guarantee you.

This is more like it.

This airway is towards the top of the mortise. To enable the smoke to pass through to the stem, the tenon is shortened. Swirling of smoke, condensation, gurgle!

What can a pipemaker do to rectify this? Ever heard of the pipecleaner test? Yeah, it passes a pipecleaner right into the bowl!

This is what some pipemakers do: they ramp the airway, thus enabling the tenon to finish flush in the bottom of the mortise. The symptom is cured, but not the cause. You again have a widening in the airway!

Another example: the mortise is made deeper. An oil chamber, sump whatever you want to call it. The fact is, the draw is compromised, along with a loss of taste and quality of smoke.

Shall I rest my case, your Honour?

A bad day at the office

2011-06-13T20:05:00.003+02:00

I have been wanting to try my hand at "freehand" drilling for quite a while. Well, eventually got the courage together, shaped a pipe and tried.
The shaping is, I think, the main reason why pipemakers (especially Europeans) love this topsy-turvy way of making pipes. It gives way more leeway to get the best possible out of a block and also to work around the bad spots. So I shaped this pipe below.
Then came the difficult part: the drilling. I drew the lines for the airway, mortis and chamber. Even got the QC (the wife) to double check my lines. She's an interior designer with an incredible eye for detail and symmetry. First off was the mortis. I went a little too deep and a little offline, but nothing that couldn't be fixed. The result was a bit shorter shank and re-drilling with a slightly larger mortis bit. Wonderful!
Then I went for drilling the chamber, and immediately understood why the pros do not use spade bits like this. It chatters, is difficult to control and no matter how sharp, does not really cut the way it normally does when the block is fixed. Note to self: get spoon bits before trying this again.
The tobacco chamber chamber eventually got drilled more or less OK. Not to the standard that I normally do, but nothing that can't be fixed (heard that before?).
Then I started the air hole. Halfway through it still seemed fine.
And then I felt it. The tip of the bit coming through the shank.

If I was a woman I would have cried. Even Ounooi, my faithful workshop companion, did not feel great. So I did what a man can.
I packed up, went inside the house, and poured myself a stiff whisky...

A double....

OK, dammit, a couple of doubles!

PS - I will most definitely try this again, but only when I get hold of spoon bits. It really gives you wonderful freedom working with the grain and the flaws. And I will get this right, no matter how long it takes (or how many bottles of whisky!).

Watch this space!

The cleaning of Old Faithful

2011-06-03T22:31:00.005+02:00

The pipes that I smoke is a running joke between my pipe smoking friends.
The sad fact is that they are always dirty and in dire need of TLC. I suppose it's sort of like a mechanic's car: they never have time to fix there own.
Like most pipe smokers that I know, I have an old favourite, not necessarily a looker, and not one that you would like to show off. But damn, does it smoke like a dream!
Mine I made years ago when somebody brought me a piece of African blackwood. Like with all new pipe making material, I made a pipe to try it out personally. And somehow it became my Monday to Friday "working" hours pipe. Except for smoking really well, I think part of the love is because it is just a pipe. It is no-nonsense, not particularly beautiful, is at home in dirty places and don't mind a bit of rough playing. Sort of like the girlfriends that you liked to hang out with in younger days, but definitely did not want to be the mother of your children.
So Old Faithful was getting really disgusting and I decided to give him a wash, so to speak. Here is a photo of the bowl. Lovely cake that I got started there, hey? You'll also see chipmarks on the rim, the result of dropping it on paving.
The stem doesn't look much better either. Lots of teeth marks. I'm a clencher you see (especially when the boss is in a bad mood!). It is the 3rd stem, by the way.

First off is reaming. For this sad case I don't use the reamer, but go straight to a bowl bit. Don't try this at home kids! African blackwood is extremely hard, and I've found that you can really leave the barest minimum thickness of cake in the bowl.

And here's a close-up of the tenon and mortise. Nasty stuff.

The top of the bowl I actually just sanded down a bit, to get rid of all the build-up and gunk. You'll probably see the sanding marks left on the rim in the photo below. The airhole was cleaned and sanitised with a pipecleaner dipped in alcohol. And then the pipe was waxed with tripoli and polished.

Here's the pipe ready to go for another 6 months or so.

Briar and flaws

2011-04-29T23:48:00.005+02:00

Working with a natural product like briar, means that your chance of getting that perfect pipe is, well, not very good. Ever wondered why the topnotch pipemakers can ask so much for certain pipes? Those pipes have absolutely no external flaws, blemishes or even little pinpricks!

When looking at a block of briar, you have absolutely no idea what lies inside. Briar blocks are not x-rayed to see what's inside! Besides, the additional cost will definitely not be worth the while. So, you judge a block from what is on the outside. Sometimes you're lucky, sometimes not.

Now this is one of the areas where an artisan pipemaker has the advantage over factory turned pipes. At a factory, they have to make, say a 100 pipes for a certain shape. So they take 100 blocks, chuck it in a machine, 3 or 4 steps later, they have a pipe. Flaws? Nah, in the bin!

But, the pipe artisan can, on the other hand, work with the grain and flaws. One by one pipe is made. Every block is taken individually, a pipe envisioned to enhance the grain best, and when flaws and blemishes appear, there is always a chance that he can work around it. Make the shank a bit thinner, change the shape of the bowl, sand a bit more here, lower the rim etc.

For some reason, the general pipesmoking public see sandblasted pipes as inferior, cheaper. It is most definitely not! Go and have a look at JT Cook and Bruce Weaver, for example. They make pipes with sandblasting as their main objective.

I only sandblast when there is absolutely no other way for me. If removing the blemish will mean that I end up with 3mm thick walls I most definitely won't try and sand it out! Imagine a bulldog with perfect lines and a flaw on the shank. The shape is perfect, all the technical "internals" have been drilled perfectly. All the work and hours gone into one pipe and no reason for the pipe to be a bad smoker.

Will it take less time than a smooth pipe? Yip, certainly! And most of the time the price reflects that. But, a straight grain would have been more economically viable. Most makers do it for a living, mouths to feed, bills to pay. And of course more time is spend on a perfect tight straightgrain. Wouldn't you as well?

Will it smoke worse than a smooth? Nope! No self proclaimed (and self respected!) pipemaker is ever going to sell a pipe that he has doubts about.

Is it going to look worse than a smooth? Well, for me smooth always win! But, a pipe that has been placed in the block correctly, following the grain, will always look good when blasted.

On the bench

2011-04-01T11:31:00.004+02:00

The 2 pipes in the front are close to completion. Bowls are coated and sanding finished, just waiting for the logo and final polish. The reddish one is a canadian pot with cumberland stem. The chocolate one in front is a longshanked egg with white acrylic inlay in a saddle type cumberland stem. On the stand in the back are 2 waiting to be called pipes. Rough shaping is done and now it's time for tweaking. The one on the left is hoping to become an author and the one on the right an apple. Only time will tell! The wood of the author is perfect flamegrain up the sides and nice birdseye on the bottom and rim, with no blemishes. The apple have stunning tight grain, but unfortunately a pinprick blemish on the shank reared its ugly head. Hopefully I'll be able to get rid of that and end up with a smooth contrast-stained pipe.

Third time lucky, ugh, 4th time lucky..

2011-03-07T17:58:00.005+02:00

A lot of time when making a pipe, a little hiccup happens. You forget to clean the epoxy when gluing a insert, or a flaw suddenly emerge right where you don't need it, you take off just that little bit too much when turning a tenon, and so on, and so on. Little mistakes that can be worked around.

You also get pipes that just flow. You'll envision the pipe, cut, drill, shape etc. exactly how your idea was from the start right through to finish. Needless to say it doesn't happen very often!

Briar is a natural product and thus throw us these little curve balls.

But, a pipemaker have the chance, and most often, ability, to work with this imperfect block, trying to coach the best possible out of each individual one. We don't need to turn a 100 pipes in exactly the same shape and size. This is one of the reasons why a handmade pipe should, most often times in any case, be far superior to factory turned ones.

Then, you get those dreaded pipes where everything that can possibly go wrong, does. This was the case with the above pipe!

First off I had the briar shank too long. It just didn't look right. So I made it a bit shorter. And it still wasn't to my liking. The third try did it for me, eventually.

Then a ugly flaw reared its head on the stummel. I was doing my "fine tuning" of the shape, just had to get a hair width off that particular spot, touched the sanding wheel very lightly and delicately and wham, the flaw appears! My two workshop companions, the garage cat and my sheepdog, decided to leave the close vicinity of their boss very quickly!

Then I started on the stem. Using my usual bit for stainless tenons, doing everything exactly like normal, I ended up with a loose tenon! OK, Charl, no problem. So I do it again, much slower this time, making sure that everything is indeed like normal procedure. The hole ends up too big!

So I go and buy a new bit, drill another stem, and this one ends up too big as well. On the 4th stem, I decide to re-sharpen the old bit, drill the cumberland, and it fits like a glove!

The whole pipe probably took me 4 times the time that it should have. And, hopefully, the Pipemaking Demon will now be satisfied for at least another 20 or so pipes, before he strikes again!

A pipemakers table

2011-02-11T21:11:00.002+02:00

Well, I suppose not necessarily all pipemakers!

This is what my finishing table, normally, looks like. I tend to get so engrossed in the pipe I'm working on at the moment, that I don't really notice what mess I'm making as I go along! Every month or so, OK, maybe every 2 months or so!

One thing that a pipemaker can never have enough of, are files, and lots of them. A pipemaker can never have enough. All shapes and sizes and cuts. From rasps through to needle files. For some reason there always tend to be a certain shape or size that you don't have, just to get into that special area on a certain shape!

On the left, you'll see a candle. It's not in loving memory of a long ago passed away aunt or grandad. I use it for bending my stems. Some other guys love to use a heatgun or the laborious salt-box-in-oven method. But this is what works for me.

Next to it is a bottle of stain, of which I have various colours. That is to say, various "normal" pipe colours. I'm not one for these crazy blues, purple and greens you sometimes get.

To the right of the cloth is a short stubby and very sharp knife. It used to belong to my grandad, who, being somebody who never threw anything away, probably got it from granny after she didn't have use of it in the kitchen anymore. I have quite a few of these that I use for various stuff, but this particular one is used for scraping the stem. It often happens that there are some scratches on a stem that are hard as hell to get rid of, no matter the grit or amount of sanding. This works like a dream!

New home for Goussard Pipes

2011-01-27T17:41:00.003+02:00

Due to the gracious nature of my pipesmoking-friend, Dean, Goussard Pipes now have a new home. If you care to have a look, please go to http://goussardpipes.com/ . He's done some marvellous work!

From now on, this blog will be used to show pipes that I'm currently working on, some of the trials and tribulations in the wonderful world of pipemaking and also some other pipe-related stuff.

Here is a photo of what I'm currently working on. The half-shaped pipe is my impression of an elephant's foot. The grain seems very promising and I can't wait to see the result. The block of plateaux is next in line, with a rough outline of what I envision, drawn on the side.

#1101 and #1102

2011-01-07T14:42:00.003+02:00

My apologies for not having any measurements for these 2 pipes, I suppose with a little one in the house the mind is the first thing to go!

#1101:
First off is this bamboo-shanked pickaxe. It was a commission for a pipesmoker friend of mine and I'm quite satisfied with it!

#1102:

This one is on its way to my friend Jaume in Spain. The stem inlay is kudu horn.

#1014

2010-12-04T22:05:00.004+02:00

Stummel: african blackwood

Height of bowl: 52mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 40mm

Bowl size: 26mm

Length of pipe: 153mm

Stem material: german cumberland

Price: Reserved

I normally don't like making big pipes, but this block just turned out too nice to resist. Made on commission for an American friend.

#1013

2010-11-03T22:09:00.003+02:00

It has been a very long time since I last posted, my apologies, but I have a very good reason. My baby girl is 2 months old now and have severely limited dad's time with pipe making! But I did manage to get this little chubby done. Here are the specs:

Stummel: briar

Bowl height: 48mm

Depth of chamber: 39mm

Size of bowl: 18mm (conical)

Length of pipe: 117mm

Stem material: handcut ebonite

Stem insert: briar and acrylic

Weight: 58g

Price: R840 ($120)

#1012

2010-07-19T22:45:00.002+02:00

Stummel: spanish briar

Shank extension: acrylic

Height of bowl: 46mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 38mm

Bowl size: 19mm

Length of pipe: 138mm

Stem material: ebonite

Weight: 49g

Price: R1,700 ($230)

#1011

2010-06-01T22:16:00.003+02:00

Stummel: briar

Endcap: white acrylic

Height of bowl: 42mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 36mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 129mm

Stem material: vulcanite
Price: R1,200 ($160)

A billiard with a kick! A thicker shank, widening towards the stem and ending with the white acrylic, and then the slim and elegant stem. Works quite well together, don't you think?

#1010

2010-06-01T21:48:00.003+02:00

Stummel: briar

Shank extension: african blackwood

Height of bowl: 39mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 35mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 132mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: R800 ($110)

I have always been crazy about Lovats, and this one is no exception. There are a couple of external blemishes in the wood, therefore the very low price. As a sidenote: I never do fills and never try to hide pits or blemishes. Wood is a natural product and should be seen as such.

#1009

2010-05-25T18:20:00.002+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of stummel: 45mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 39mm

Bowl size: 21mm

Stem material: vulcanite with acrylic ring

Length of pipe: 122mm

Price: R900 ($120)

A little pocket-sized pipe with a very thin bit. Unfortunately there are a couple of exterior blemishes (biggest one on the underside of the bowl), which is why the price is at such a steal.

#1008

2010-05-16T21:22:00.004+02:00

Stummel: briar

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: Not for Sale

I have been wanting to to try my hand at one of these for a very long time. A couple of months ago, a customer came to me with an old Kiko of which the screw tenon was very loose. Unfortunately, when re-drilling, the meerschaum lining broke into pieces. Feeling sorry for the pipe's premature "death", I promised to make something similar. This is my result.

#1007

2010-05-02T21:00:00.005+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of bowl: 42mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 35mm

Bowl size: 19mm

Length of pipe: 154mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Ring: sterling silver

Price: SOLD

I am not sure if you should call this an elongated billiard or maybe a liverpool with a long stem! All said, I think it is a very decent pipe with great classical lines. Enjoy!

#1006

2010-05-02T20:48:00.003+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of bowl: 38mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 33mm

Bowl size: 19mm

Length of pipe: 153mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: R1,200 ($160)

With a small tobacco chamber, this pipe was made for those people who like their pipes to be on the smaller side. The reverse saddle bit was thrown in to make the pipe a little different to the norm.

#1005

2010-04-09T17:15:00.003+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of bowl: 45mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 33mm

Bowl size: 22mm (conical)

Length of pipe: 144mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: R900

The Dublin has been one of my favourite shapes for a long time and one that always is a pleasure to make. It has quite simple lines, but never fails to be elegant. This pipe, among other things, have unfortunately a lot of little pits all over the stummel. If I had the ability to do my own sandblasting, it would have been the ideal candidate for a try-out. It will still make for a really decent pipe. And that at a really decent price!

#1004

2010-04-08T17:46:00.002+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of bowl: 45mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 37mm

Bowl size: 23mm

Length of pipe: 109mm

Stem material: vulcanite with white acrylic insert

Price: SOLD

This one is for a long-time customer of mine that is crazy about Oom Paul's. Hope you enjoy it for years to come!

#1003

2010-03-30T20:30:00.003+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of bowl: 47mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 37mm

Bowl size: 22mm (tapered)

Length of pipe: 142mm

Stem material: vulcanite with acrylic inlay

Price: SOLD

This is one of the first acorns that I tried my hand at, and I really like this shape! It fits the hand wonderfully and the flow it has is (for me, that is) quite sensuous. Hope you enjoy it too!

#1002

2010-03-10T17:52:00.005+02:00

Stummel: african blackwood

Height: 45mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 37mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 155mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: SOLD

A lovely, flowing "dress" pipe. There is a little mark on the stem/shank joint, which is the reason for the really low price. Otherwise it is perfect and a real steal.

#1001

2010-02-07T15:55:00.002+02:00

This pipe was made for the Pipemakersforum "Pipe in the Hat" event. The idea behind this is to make a pipe, send it to another pipemaker and then get some feedback regarding it. I see this as extremely valuable for any pipemaker. After all, what better way to get critique is there than from your peers?

In the end I unfortunately didn't have time for taking measurements, as you can see.

#0945

2009-11-15T17:07:00.004+02:00

Stummel: african blackwood

Height of bowl: 52mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 45mm

Bowl size: 21mm

Length of pipe: 137mm

Stem material: vulcanite with white acrylic inlay

Price: SOLD

This is a stunning pipe with long elegant flowing lines. The type of pipe that is smoked only at home for those special occasions.

#0944

2009-11-15T16:54:00.004+02:00

Stummel: african blackwood

Height of bowl: 52mm

Depth of bowl: 45mm

Bowl size: 21mm

Length of pipe: 132mm

Stem material: vulcanite with white acrylic inlay

Price: SOLD

This is a beautiful pipe with nice flowing lines and perfect symmetry. The bit of yellow wood on the front of the bowl actually also worked out to be in perfect symmetry. It is quite a heavy pipe, so definitely not for the heavy clenchers.

#0942

2009-11-15T16:42:00.003+02:00

Stummel: wild olive

Height of bowl: 41mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 31mm

Bowl size: 26mm

Length of pipe: 137mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: SOLD

This pipe is for smokers with a big craving for our Lady Nicotiana. The bowl size should be perfect for flakes as well. There is some lovely grain on the front left side of the bowl.

#0936

2009-11-15T16:31:00.002+02:00

Stummel: african blackwood

Height of bowl: 43mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 34mm

Bowl size: 19mm

Length of pipe: 124mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: R800 ($110)

I love the brandy shape and this one I am very pleased with. It has perfect dimensions and symmetry. And on top of all the size will enable you to fit it into any pocket for any occasion. It has a little imperfection on top of the shank, close to the bowl, which explains the price.

#0932

2009-11-15T16:15:00.004+02:00

Stummel: african blackwood

Height of bowl: 45mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 33mm

Bowl size: 21mm

Length of pipe: 142mm

Stem material: vulcanite with white acrylic inlay

Price: SOLD

With a shape like a golfclub, this pipe does not fit in with the elegant crowd. It is a unpretentious, what-you-see-is-what-you-get pipe and has absolutely no flaws or imperfections. It fits perfectly in the hand and is a steal at this price.

#0929

2009-11-15T16:03:00.004+02:00

Stummel: african blackwood

Height of bowl: 47mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 39mm

Bowl size: 21mm

Length of pipe: 120mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: SOLD

Africa blackwood is very, very hard and smoke like a dream. This sort of a chubby bent brandy, is very comfortable in the hand and will make a lovely, durable everyday smoking pipe.

#0925

2009-11-15T15:51:00.003+02:00

Stummel: wild olive

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: N/A

I unfortunately didn't have time to get all the measurements of this bulldog. I gave it to a friend who received a little baby girl from the stork about 3 months ago. Why did he get a pipe? Because a dad have to have a pipe!

#0938

2009-10-26T18:49:00.004+02:00

My apologies for taking so long since my last post, these last 2 months it's been a mad rush to get enough pipes finished for a Christmas Market. For those of you close enough, please go and drop in at the "Stellenberg Feesmark". It will be on until 7 November.

In the mean time, here is a little teaser of some of the pipes that I made.

#0924

2009-09-06T16:31:00.004+02:00

Stummel: orange tree
Bowl height: 42mm

Bowl size: 20mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 34mm

Length of pipe: 122mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: R800 ($100)

This is a delightful little pipe made from the wood of an orange tree. The wood of orange is quite light, very nice to work with and finishes to a deep shine. Smoking will give you a slightly orange taste as well. This pipe have a couple of surface flaws on the outside of the bowl.

#0922

2009-07-07T22:11:00.004+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of bowl: 43mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 35mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 143mm

Stem material: vulcanite with white inlay

Price: SOLD

Weight: 41g

This delightful little Prince, I must tell you, was really not such a princely affair! I started the block with the idea of making a volcano. While rough shaping, I sanded into a fissure on the shank. This fissure unfortunately went 3/4 of the way through and the shank eventually broke. It lay on my bench for about 2 months while I toyed with shank extensions, but none worked out the way I wanted. So, in the end, I went for a totally new shape. I proudly present to you the Royal Ass!

#0921

2009-06-17T20:54:00.006+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of bowl: 50mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 37mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 139mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Weight: 42g

Price: SOLD

This pipe was made from the last block of a batch of briar. Externally, the block looked to be full of promise, and I wanted to make use of the grain as best possible. Eventually I came up with this shape. Unfortunately the block didn't give me the results I was looking for. A good number of flaws and sandpits appeared during shaping. I really wanted to see how the shape evolve, so I left them as is. Lovely shape, lovely staining, shame about the flaws!

#0920

2009-06-08T20:15:00.008+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of bowl: 50mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 40mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 122mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Weight: 63g

Price: SOLD

I am not a great fan of bents, as everybody looking at my pipes would be able to tell, but every now and then I decide to take the plunge and try my hand at one. This, as you can see, is one of those rare occasions. And wow, did it take me for a surprise! Beautiful flamegrain on the sides, and then, to top it all, stunning birdseye on the bottom, running through the shank to the stem! The shape fits the palm of my hand as if been molded especially for me. It is going to be very difficult to let go of this baby!

#0919

2009-06-01T21:04:00.002+02:00

Price: SOLD

This was a commisioned pipe for a gentleman that wanted a slight variation on a previous pipe of mine. One of his requirements was a filter, something I normally don't allow for. I love doing commisions, it is normally quite a challenge to make a pipe according to another smoker's ideas. I hope it brings the new owner many years of smoking pleasure and friendship!

#0918

2009-06-01T20:53:00.008+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of bowl: 55mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 49mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 158mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Weight: 30g

Price: SOLD

This pipe was reserved for one of my favourite customers. He eventually decided to buy another pipe of mine, therefore it is for sale again.

The Dublin shape is one of my favourites, and this version one of the view that I am satisfied with. The long slender stem and shank, and the elegant bowl is really gorgeous. This pipe has a marvellous flow from rim to bit. One for those dreaded formal affairs!

#0917

2009-06-01T20:22:00.007+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of bowl: 57mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 50mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 155mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Weight: 52g

Price: SOLD

I just love the Cutty shape, but for some reason the general pipesmoking public shies away from it. Some people don't like the fact that the bowl rim is rounded and not flat. While others belief that the forward canted bowl doesn't allow for an easy smoke. Other makers might disagree with me, but for me personally the cant actually allows for even better centering of the draughthole in the bottom of the chamber.

Whatever your opinion, this is a beautiful shape and pipe.

#0916

2009-06-01T20:03:00.006+02:00

Stummel: briar

Height of bowl: 48mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 42mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 137mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Weight: 51g

Price: R1,200 ($160)

This is a nice, sturdy, manly pipe. I am not a great fan of rectangular stems, but this one works very nice for me. Great for those smokers that like a pipe to sit!

#0915

2009-05-04T22:08:00.006+02:00

Stummel: briar (stained)

Height of bowl: 61mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 49mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 149mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Weight: 42g

Price: SOLD

Slim, elegant, beautiful curves. What more can a man ask for? And on top of all a brunette! Jokes aside, this is a stunning pipe. With amazing birdseye on the front of the bowl, this will make any pipestand proud.

#0914

2009-05-04T21:37:00.005+02:00

Stummel: briar (stained)

Height of bowl: 53mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 34mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 128mm

Stem material: vulcanite with kudu horn inlay

Weight: 40g

Price: SOLD

This little pipe is a treasure: it fits the hand as if moulded from it and also is a real pleasure to look at. The stunning flamegrain on the sides and front of bowl just emphasize it's beauty. There are a couple of sandpits on the bottom of the bowl and also a surface crack on the shank, but I couldn't push myself to rusticate. I think it was worth the while.

#0912

2009-05-04T21:12:00.005+02:00

Stummel: briar (stained)

Height of bowl: 41mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Depth of tobacco chamber: 32mm
Length of pipe: 150mm

Stem material: vulcanite with white acrylic inlay

Price: SOLD

A nice long pipe for those of you that believe it results in a cooler smoke. The diamond-shaped shank and stem with white inlay makes it an elegant pipe for those dreaded formal affairs.

#0913

2009-05-01T17:21:00.007+02:00

Stummel: briar (stained)

Height of bowl: 61mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 45mm

Bowl size: 25mm

Length of pipe: 150mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: SOLD

This is a big pipe, one of those built for driving long distances with. One bowl will last you a long, long way! I left the the top rough on this one because I thought that it might give the pipe an interesting twist. The bowl fits my hand very comfortably. There are 2 surface fissures on the bowl, one on the bottom and one on the back of the bowl. And of course, the staining is marvellous! Great buy for somebody with a big appetite for smoking!

#0911

2009-04-22T07:36:00.005+02:00

Stummel: briar (stained)

Height of bowl: 50mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 44mm

Bowl size: 22mm

Length of pipe: 148mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Weight: 36g

Price: SOLD

I am quite happy with this pipe. The only part done on the lathe was the tenon of the stem, the rest was all done by hand. Because of a couple of small flaws on the outside of the bowl, I originally thought I would rusticate. But then after staining and seeing the grain on the front of the bowl, it seemed like a waste. Lovely pipe and one of my favourite shapes.

#0904

2009-04-05T22:27:00.002+02:00

Stummel: wild olive
Height of bowl: 52mm
Depth of tobacco hole: 47mm
Bowl size: 22mm
Length of pipe: 119mm
Stem material: vulcanite
Price: R1,000

This little dumpy with oval shaped bowl is a pleasure to hold. The heartwood on the back and front of the bowl is stunning. Drop me a mail if you would like to see more photos.

#0830

2009-04-05T22:16:00.002+02:00

Stummel: wild olive

Stem: vulcanite

Price: N/A

Stunning, stunning grain on this one! I managed to orientate the grain just right for this Cherrywood. Very lucky if you consider the amount of useless wood you get from this type of wild olive. Given as a present to a pipesmoker-in-the-making friend of mine!

#0832

2009-04-05T22:05:00.001+02:00

Stummel: guava (rusticated and stained)

Height of bowl: 54mm

Depth of tobacco hole: 33mm

Bowl size: 23mm

Length of pipe: 155mm

Stem material: vulcanite

Price: R1000

This pipe has been reserved for quite a while. The prospective buyer decided on another pipe, so now it's up for sale again. A nice flowing shape to have in your collection.